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All Raceway Ural parts and accessories are backed up by an unlimited lifetime repair or replacement warranty. This warranty covers materials and workmanship for raceway manufactured part fails for any reason other than normal wear, intentional abuse or as the result of an accident or collision it will be repaired or replaced by raceway ural at no cost to the consumer.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR HPCVS PN 10262

Chang Jiang Distributor Power Arc Ignition

Ural Reverse Shift Kit

Ural Reverse Shift Kit Document

Ural Twin Stick Forward & Reverse Shift Kit

Ural Twin Stick Forward & Reverse Shift Kit PDF

Ural Two Wheel Drive & Reverse Kit

Ural Two Wheel Drive & Reverse Kit PDF

Power Injection Cable Luber Tool

Protect All Cable Life Power Injection Lubricant with snorkel and Protect All Patented Power Injection Cable Luber Tool.

How To Use:

1. Detach one end of a cable from your motorcycle, snowmobile, watercraft, bike or other vehicle or machinery.

2. Open the Cable Luber Tool completely by turning both screws together with your thumb and forefinger. Insert the wire cable into the
slit in the black rubber sheath with the cable extending from the closed end of the rubber sheath. Then push the cable housing forward into the wide opening of
the rubber sheath as far as possible until snug. (Smaller diameter cable housings will insert farther into the rubber sheath than larger housings.)

3. Begin tightening the Tool by turning both screws together with thumb and finger, or, alternate turning each screw 1/8 turn or less, until he clamp and rubber sheath are snug against the cable and housing. Be sure to turn screws in equal amounts to avoid binding the clamp against the screws in an uneven position. (When this happens the screws will not turn giving the false perception that the clamp is properly seated against the cable when in fact it is not. A loose-fitting seal will cause the lubricant to leak excessively from the area between the screws and at the opening when sprayed into the Tool. If binding and leaking occurs, back off on the screws and retighten evenly.)

4. Once the clamp is snug against both the wire cable and the housing, turn each screw separately in equal amounts of 1/8 turn or less until the clamp and sheath are completely tight around both the wire cable on one end and the housing on the other end. (See Tip Below)

5. Insert one end of the plastic Snorkel Tube carefully into the spray tip on the Cable Life aerosol can and push the other end into the hole in the rubber sheath on the front of the Cable Luber Tool. Hold a rag around the Luber to contain any leakage. Begin by spraying in a quick, short burst to test for a tight seal. (Since most metal cables are made of twisted strands of wire, there are gaps between the strands. It is normal for a small amount of lubricant to leak from between the strands at the wire cable end of
the Luber Tool. When you feel comfortable that the Luber Tool is sufficiently tight and the snorkel connection is secure, you can utilize the benefits of the Power Injection Cable Life aerosol by spraying for 5 seconds or more to thoroughly clean, purge and inject fresh lubricant along the entire length of the cable.)

Clean and lubricate your cables every 60 to 90 days with he Protect All Cable Care Power Injection System to keep them in TIP TOP working condition.

(TIP: You can shorten the plastic Snorkel for better control. Cut the Snorkel to your desired length with a razor knife for a straight clean edge. Do not use scissors or a dull knife as these can create an uneven cut and can crimp the edges of the Snorkel. Both may cause leakage of lubricant at the aerosol spray tip and where the Snorkel enters the Cable Luber Tool. Save the remainder of the Snorkel for future use.)

Ural Trunk Lock Kit

Power Arc Ignition Kit

Ural Power Arc instructions

USE OPTICALLY TRIGGERED  IGNITIONS


MOST ELECTRONIC IGNITIONS USED TO DATE SENSE CRANK ANGLE BY USING A HALL EFFECT PICKUP, WHICH IS A MAGNETIC TYPE SENSOR. THIS TYPE OF SENSOR IS INHERENTLY UNSTABLE & IS EFFECTED BY METAL MASS, MOTION, HEAT & DISTANCE  FROM PICKUP.  IN ADDITION MOST IGNITIONS ONLY SENSE POSITION ONCE PER REVOLUTION.  THE CONTROL SYSTEM MUST ESTIMATE CURRENT ENGINE SPEED BASED ON THE ROTATIONAL VELOCITY OF THE PREVIOUS REVOLUTION.  SUDDEN ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION WILL CAUSE INSTABILITY. THIS INSTABILITY CAUSES INTERNAL VIBRATION THAT CAN BE OBSERVED BY THE MOVEMENT SEEN ON THE FLYWHEEL WHEN USING A TIMING LIGHT. THE USE OF A MAGNETIC TYPE SENSOR CAN CAUSE TIMING TO BE OFF AS MUCH AS ±7° GIVING AN OVERALL DEVIATION OF 14° OR MORE. WITH AN OPTICAL SENSOR YOU ARE BREAKING A LIGHT BEAM AND LIGHT BEAMS DO NOT DEVIATE! IN ADDITION ABSOLUTE POSITIONS ARE SENSED AT MULTIPLE KEY POINTS ON THE ROTOR,  90 TIMES PER REVOLUTION WITH THE NEW IDS SYSTEM.  THE EXTREME STABILITY OPTICAL SYSTEMS OFFER  ALLOWS THE ENGINE TO ACCELERATE AT A MUCH GREATER SPEED, REDUCES ENGINE
WEAR,  ALLOWING FOR SMOOTHER OPERATION & TRANSFER OF  POWER.

IGNITION  TIMING

UNDERSTANDING ENGINE  TIMING & ITS RELATION TO LOAD, COMPRESSION AND FUEL DELIVERY VARIABLES IS  IMPORTANT TO PERFORMANCE. THE NEW IDS IGNITIONS HAVE PROGRAMMABLE SENSOR INPUTS  WHICH CAN BE INTERFACED TO A VACUUM ACTIVATED SWITCH OR A MAP SENSOR. THE  IGNITION TIMING CAN BE SET TO ANY VALUE BASED ON SENSOR INPUT STATUS. THE POWER  ARC CDR OR SR²  ALSO HAVE A VACUUM RETARD CAPABILITY.  IF YOU HAVE A LARGE  DRESSER (H-D), ARE UNDER HEAVY LOAD CONDITIONS, HAVE INCREASED ENGINE  COMPRESSION,  HAVE A LARGE BORE ENGINE OR ARE USING NOS PLEASE USE SORT OF  IGNITION RETARD SYSTEM.

VOES –VACUUM  OPERATED EMISSIONS SWITCH   (HARLEY-DAVIDSON)

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU USE A VOES SWITCH IF ONE WAS ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE OR YOU SHOULD ADD ONE IF YOU HAVE A HIGH PERFORMANCE, HEAVY BIKE OR HAVE WIDE ENGINE LOAD VARIATIONS. A VOES IS NOT JUST FOR EMISSIONS AND CAN BE ONE OF THE MOST EFFECTIVE PERFORMANCE COMPONENTS OF YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM WHEN USED CORRECTLY.    IF YOU DID NOT HAVE A VOES GROUND THE IGNITION RETARD CONTROL  WIRE WIRE.  IF YOU HAVE MODIFIED YOUR BIKE TO ADD PERFORMANCE YOU SHOULD RAISE  THE SETTING OF YOU EXISTING VOES SET POINT TO ACTIVATE BETWEEN 5 & 5 1/2″  LB. OF VACUUM.

IGNITION  COILS

PICK THE RIGHT TYPE OF  COIL, DO NOT USE PAPER SECTION COILS ONLY USE SECTION BOBBIN COILS. SECTION  BOBBIN COILS ALLOW FOR FAST RISE TIMES AND IMPROVED RELIABILITY.  POWER ARC ONLY  SELLS SECTION BOBBIN
COILS.


USE IGNITIONS WHICH ARE   MULTI-SPARK

DURING THE INTAKE CYCLE FUEL IS DELIVERED VIA A CARBURETOR OR INJECTION SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD INTO A COMBUSTION CYLINDER. BOTH OF THESE DELIVERY SYSTEMS SUPPLY FUEL TO THE CYLINDER IN A DROPLET FORM, ESPECIALLY AT LOWER RPM RANGES. AS THE FUEL IS COMPRESSED TURBULENCE IN A CIRCULAR FASHION IS CREATED DUE TO EXISTING HEAD DESIGNS. AS THE PRIMARY SPARK IS DISCHARGED THE CONCUSSION OF THE EXPLOSION COMBINED WITH SUPERHEATING OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER TURNS THE DROPLETS OF FUEL INTO HOT VAPOROUS GAS. THE FLAME FRONT DUE TO THE ROLLING TURBULENCE CREATED BY THE HEADS  MOVES AWAY FROM THE POINT OF IGNITION TO THE FACE OF THE PISTON AND TO THE OUTER  CYLINDER WALLS. AS THE PISTON NEARS THE TOP OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE ANY  REMAINING UNBURNED VAPOROUS GAS IS CIRCULATED OVER THE SPARK PLUG, AND A FUEL  ROLL STALL OCCURS. AT THIS POINT A SECOND SPARK IS DISCHARGED OBTAINING A SECONDARY BURN OF THE FUEL THAT IN A SINGLE SPARK IGNITION SYSTEM WOULD BE TRAPPED IN THE UPPER PORTIONS OF THE HEAD AND DURING THE EXPANSION PORTION OF THE POWER STROKE WOULD BE UNBURNED AND THEN BE CYCLED OUT DURING THE EXHAUST CYCLE AS EMISSIONS.  WITH THE EXTREME STABILITY OF AN OPTICALLY TRIGGERED IGNITION SYSTEM IN A MULTI-SPARK MODE A REPEATABLE SECONDARY EXPLOSION IS POSSIBLE.  THIS ALLOWS FOR THE ABILITY TO ADD MORE FUEL WITHOUT FOULING THE SPARK PLUGS AND ACHIEVE HIGHER TORQUE/HORSEPOWER

1) THE EXTREME STABILITY OF A OPTICALLY  TRIGGERED IGNITION SYSTEM HAS THE ABILITY TO ALLOW THE ENGINE TO ACCELERATE AS  MUCH AS 30% QUICKER REQUIRING GREATER FUEL FLOW TO THE CARBURETOR. THIS COUPLED  WITH ENLARGED JETTING OF THE CARBURETOR OR INCREASED FUEL TO THE INJECTORS MEANS  YOU MUST MAINTAIN A SUFFICIENT SUPPLY LINE FROM THE FUEL TANK TO THEDELIVERY  SYSTEM BY USE OF AN ENLARGED PETCOCK AND SUPPLY LINE OR A FUEL PUMP. AN EXAMPLE  WOULD BE THAT AT HIGHER RPM’S YOU MAY USE ALL THE GAS IN THE FLOAT BOWL OF YOUR CARBURETOR AND CREATE A LEAN RUN SITUATION DAMAGING THE ENGINE IF FUEL SUPPLY IS  NOT MAINTAINED.

2) IF YOU HAVE A SUFFICIENT FUEL  FLOW IN A SINGLE SPARK MODE YOU HAVE ENOUGH TO OPERATE IN THE MULTI-SPARK MODE  WITHOUT ENGINE DAMAGE BECAUSE YOU ARE BURNING RESIDUAL FUEL, EVEN THOUGH YOUR  PLUGS MAY SHOW A LEAN BURN. THIS WILL NORMALLY SHOW AN INCREASE IN FUEL ECONOMY  (IF DRIVEN IN A SIMILAR FASHION), HORSE POWER AND A REDUCTION OF EMISSIONS OUTPUT. YOU COULD INCREASE THE FUEL FOR MORE HORSEPOWER BUT YOU SHOULD BE  CAREFUL NOT TO OVER FUEL, BECAUSE IF THE FUEL IS NOT BURNED BY THE SECONDARY  SPARK IT IS EXHAUSTED AS BURNING FUEL THROUGH YOU EXHAUST SYSTEM INCREASING HEAT  AND REDUCING HORSEPOWER OUTPUT BECAUSE OF AN IMPROPER AIR/FUEL MIXTURE. THIS  ALSO RESULTS IN INCREASED EMISSIONS OUTPUT, WHICH IS UNNECESSARY.


SPARK PLUGS AND SPARK PLUG WIRES

WARNING: USE
ONLY  RESISTOR CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES WITH ALL POWER ARC IGNITIONS. SEE SPARK
PLUG WIRE  SECTION BELOW.

USE RESISTOR SPARK PLUGS WITH ALL ELECTRONIC
IGNITIONS TO  LIMIT THE CONDUCTED EMI NOISE AND RADIATED RFI
NOISE..

INITIAL SUGGESTED SETTINGS FOR SPARK PLUG GAPS  ARE:

SINGLE PLUG
0.028-0.032″
DUAL PLUG 0.025-0.030″
THESE ARE MAXIMUM SETTINGS, GO DOWN FROM HERE SPARK PLUG GAP SHOULD BE MADE AS  SMALL AS POSSIBLE, WHILE STILL MAINTAINING PERFORMANCE. A WIDE SPARK PLUG GAP  CAN CAUSE HARD COLD STARTING, MISFIRES DURING RICH OR LEAN FUEL CONDITIONS, AND  REDUCTION OF UPPER RPM RANGE. TO MAINTAIN A GOOD SECONDARY SPARK (MULTIPLE  SPARK) WITHIN A WIDER RPM RANGE IT IS WISE TO RUN A NARROWER SPARK PLUG GAP. IT  IS BETTER TO PRECISELY PLACE TWO STABLE, CONSISTENT SPARKS THAN TO FIRE ONE  WIDER SPARK THAT MAY CAUSE MISFIRES UNDER VARIOUS  CONDITIONS.

MANY THINGS EFFECT SPARK PLUG  GAP SETTINGS

COMPRESSION RATIO: THE HIGHER THE ENGINE COMPRESSION, THE MORE VOLTAGE REQUIRED TO FIRE THE PLUG, AND THE NARROWER  THE PLUG GAP SHOULD BE.

RPM: THE HIGHER THE RPM’S THE LESS TIME  THE COIL HAS TO CHARGE TO BREAK OVER VOLTAGE OR COMPLETE SATURATION. A NARROWER  SPARK PLUG GAP WILL HELP HIGH RPM STABILITY.

SPARK PLUGS WITH LARGE SIDE ELECTRODES  (GROUND STRAPS) OR SPARK PLUGS WITH SPLIT SIDE ELECTRODES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED,  THEY INTERFERE WITH THE FLAME FRONT AT THE POINT OF
IGNITION.

COIL  CHOICE, FUEL FLOW, INTAKE VELOCITIES & FUEL TEMPERATURE ARE BUT A FEW  ADDITIONAL FACTORS THAT CAN EFFECT SPARK PLUG GAP.


SPARK PLUG  CHOICE

IN MOST CASES, IT IS  NOT UNTIL THE ENGINE IS MODIFIED, OR THE COMPRESSION IS RAISED SIGNIFICANTLY,  THAT STOCK IGNITION SYSTEMS AND SPARK PLUGS BEGIN TO SHOW SIGNS OF BEING  INADEQUATE. AT THIS POINT, A VARIETY OF FACTORS DETERMINE WHICH SPARK PLUG WILL  BE BEST SUITED FOR A PARTICULAR CONFIGURATION. IN THESE MODIFIED ENGINES,  SPECIFIC ELECTRODE/TIP COMBINATIONS, ELECTRODE MATERIALS AND COLDER HEAT RANGES  CAN PROVIDE MEASURABLE GAINS IN POWER. IF YOUR VEHICLE HAS HAD EXTENSIVE  MODIFICATIONS, IT WOULD BE BEST TO SEEK THE ADVICE OF THE MANUFACTURER OF YOUR  VEHICLE, THE AFTERMARKET SUPPLIER WHO MANUFACTURED YOUR MODIFICATIONS, OR YOUR  MECHANIC.

MODIFICATIONS THAT WILL TYPICALLY NOT  REQUIRE SPECIALIZED PLUGS (IN MOST CASES THE FACTORY INSTALLED PLUG WILL BE MORE  THAN ADEQUATE) INCLUDE ADDING A FREE-FLOWING AIR FILTER, HEADERS, MUFFLERS AND  REAR-END GEARS. BASICALLY, ANY MODIFICATION THAT DOES NOT ALTER THE OVERALL COMPRESSION RATIO WILL NOT USUALLY NECESSITATE CHANGING PLUG TYPES OR HEAT RANGES. SUCH MINOR MODIFICATIONS WILL NOT SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASE THE AMOUNT OF HEAT IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, HENCE, A PLUG CHANGE IS PROBABLY NOT WARRANTED.

HOWEVER, WHEN COMPRESSION IS  RAISED, ALONG WITH THE ADDED POWER COMES ADDED HEAT. SINCE SPARK PLUGS MUST REMOVE HEAT AND A MODIFIED ENGINE MAKES MORE HEAT, THE SPARK PLUG MUST REMOVE MORE HEAT. A COLDER HEAT RANGE SPARK PLUG MUST BE SELECTED AND PLUG GAPS SHOULD BE REDUCED TO ENSURE PROPER IGNITABILITY IN THIS DENSER AIR/FUEL MIXTURE.


FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q:WHY SHOULD I USE A RESISTOR SPARK PLUGS &  SPARK PLUG WIRES?

A:”R” OR RESISTOR SPARK PLUGS USE A 5K OHM CERAMIC  RESISTOR IN THE SPARK PLUG TO SUPPRESS IGNITION NOISE GENERATED DURING SPARKING.

YOU MUST USE RESISTOR SPARK PLUGS &  WIRES IN ANY VEHICLE THAT USES ELECTRONIC IGNITIONS OR ON-BOARD COMPUTER SYSTEMS  TO MONITOR OR CONTROL ENGINE PERFORMANCE. THIS IS BECAUSE RESISTOR SPARK PLUGS & WIRES REDUCE (EMI) ELECTROMAGNETIC INTERFERENCE WITH ON-BOARD  ELECTRONICS.

THEY ARE ALSO RECOMMENDED ON ANY VEHICLE THAT HAS OTHER ON-BOARD ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS SUCH AS ENGINE-MANAGEMENT COMPUTERS, TWO-WAY RADIOS, GPS SYSTEMS, OR WHENEVER RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER.

IN FACT, USING A NON-RESISTOR PLUG OR  LOW RESISTANCE SPIRAL WOUND SPARK PLUG WIRE IN MOST APPLICATIONS MAY ACTUALLY  CAUSE THE ENGINE TO SUFFER UNDESIRABLE SIDE EFFECTS SUCH AS AN ERRATIC IDLE,  HIGH-RPM MISFIRE, ENGINE RUN-ON, POWER DROP OFF AT CERTAIN RPM LEVELS, ABNORMAL  COMBUSTION AND PROBABLE DAMAGE TO THE IGNITION AND/OR IGNITION COIL.

Q:WHY ARE THERE DIFFERENT HEAT  RANGES?

A:IT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION THAT SPARK PLUGS  CREATE HEAT. THEY DON’T. A HEAT RANGE REFERS TO HOW MUCH HEAT A SPARK PLUG IS  CAPABLE OF REMOVING FROM THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER.

SELECTING A SPARK PLUG WITH THE PROPER  HEAT RANGE WILL INSURE THAT THE TIP WILL MAINTAIN A TEMPERATURE HIGH ENOUGH TO  PREVENT FOULING YET BE COOL ENOUGH TO PREVENT PRE-IGNITION. WHILE THERE ARE MANY  THINGS THAT CAN CAUSE PRE-IGNITION, SELECTING A SPARK PLUG IN THE PROPER HEAT  RANGE WILL ENSURE THAT THE SPARK PLUG ITSELF IS NOT A HOT SPOT SOURCE.
 
 
 

SPARK PLUG WIRES

CHOICE OF SPARK PLUG WIRES IS AN IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION WHEN USING AN  ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM. ELECTRONIC IGNITIONS UTILIZE IC’S (INTEGRATED  CIRCUITS) IN THERE DESIGN FOR COUNTING TIMING PURPOSES. THESE IC’S,  CONTRARY TO MOST THINKING, ARE NOT EFFECTED BY RFI (RADIO FREQUENCY  INTERFERENCE) NOISE GENERATED BY THE HIGH VOLTAGE BREAKDOWN OF COILS, PRODUCING  THE IGNITION SPARK. THEY ARE EFFECTED BY THE CONDUCTED EMI (ELECTRO MAGNETIC  INTERFERENCE) PASSED TO THE GROUND PLANE OF THE MOTORCYCLE VIA THE SPARK PLUG  WIRES & PLUG. THE MOST EFFECTIVE WAY TO LIMIT THE CURRENT PRODUCED IN THE  SECONDARY OF THE COIL
IS TO USE CARBON CORE RESISTOR PLUG WIRES. SOLID CORE  WIRES AND MOST SPIRAL WOUND WIRES WILL NOT SUPPRESS THIS CONDUCTED EMI NOISE.


TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE

Problem: Only one cylinder will fire:
 

> Bad coil, spark plug,  or spark plug wire.
> No +12 VDC to coil + leads.
> Module wire not  connected to coil or wire broken internally or inside of connector.
>  Pinched or shorted coil trigger wire.
> Blockage of optical sensor (clean  with alcohol).
Problem: Hard  starting or engine starts when starter button released:

> Weak or undersized battery please perform voltage test at bottom of page.
> Poor  connections in ign. circuit to coils (breaker, ign. & kill  switches).
>
Spark plug gap to large.
> Poor ground connection from battery to frame.
> Improper coil choice.
 
Problem: Erratic operation, tach bounce:

> Solid or spiral core spark plug wires being used.
> Rotor pins or Encoder slots rusted or blocked by debris.
> High resistance connection on ground loop from ignition module.
> Defective charging system.
> Blockage of optics in sensor plate or ignition.


Problem: Static timing LED stays lighted:
> Blockage of  optics (clean with alcohol).
> Defective Ignition.

Problem: Kicks back when starting, runs similar to stock  ignition:

> Static timing too  advanced recheck static timing (Harley-Davidson timingmarks).
> Voltage drop to ignition (see test at bottom of  page).
> Ignition advance curve too aggressive.

 

Problem: Ignition will  not retard under heavy load or acceleration:

> VOES wire or sensor wire on ignition module not grounded.
> Defective VOES or vacuum switch.


Problem: Tail pipes blue,  hollow sound in pipes, runs sluggish:

> Ignition static timing too far retarded.
> Ignition timing curve too far retarded readjust or reprogram curve.
> VOES  or vacuum switch not operating or activating at wrong vacuum.
> Bad connection from wire to VOES or vacuum switch.

Problem: Spark present at plugs with occasional back fire or wont start:

> Timing wrong check coil  wire connections and make sure they are going to the correct coil.
> Make  sure plug wire is attached to the correct coil.  Refer to owner’s manual.

Problem: Pinging when leaving the line:

> Timing to far advanced.  Recheck static timing or change  advance curve.

Problem: Pinging in the  midrange:

> Pins in rotor  located in the wrong position (too much advance- Not IDS).
> Timing to far  advanced.  Recheck static timing or change advance curve.
> VOES or vacuum  switch not operating or activating at wrong vacuum.
> Bad connection from  wire to VOES or vacuum switch.

Basic  Voltage test:

Load system by  turning on lights & ignition. With negative terminal of volt meter attached  to ground of module, check the voltage at the + (positive) of the battery &  note. Then check the voltage at the + (positive) of the coils & note.  Compare the two and there should be no more than 1 volt difference. If they show  more than 1 volt difference check battery, connectors, ignition breaker,  ignition switch & kill switch for high resistance or opens. Hint- Check on  both sides of the component being testing to see where the voltage drop  occurs.

BEFORE RETURNING ANY MODULE OR TRIGGER PLATE INSPECT THE CABLES ON  FOR ABRASION, CUTS OR CRUSHING AS THIS IS A COMMON CAUSE OF FAILURE.  ALSO MAKE  SURE YOU ARE USING
RESISTOR SPARK WIRES AND RESISTOR PLUGS.

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